Tours · Dharamsala, Himachal Pradesh
High Meadows under the Dhauladhar
A green meadow scattered with boulders, a few tall conifers and the snowy Dhauladhar close behind. How the range was formed, who grazes these pastures and how the trail continues towards Indrahar Pass.
This panorama stands on a high meadow above Dharamsala. Green grass runs between scattered boulders, a rain puddle sits in the dirt track, a few tall conifers stand at the edge, and directly behind them rises the Dhauladhar, still white with snow in June. The trail is not identified, and several routes above McLeod Ganj cross ground like this. What they share is the range behind them, the granite wall of the Dhauladhar.
The Dhauladhar, the ‘White Range’
Dhauladhar means ‘the White Range’. It is a lesser Himalayan chain running through Himachal Pradesh, with Dharamsala built on one of its southern spurs. Heights along the crest run from about 3,500 m to nearly 6,000 m, and several peaks come close to 5,500 m.
The range is best seen from the Kangra valley, where it appears to rise almost vertically from the plain. The core is mostly granite, with slate, limestone and sandstone on the flanks, and the slopes are steep enough that most summits need technical climbing. The top of the crest lies under thick snow for much of the year.
Meadows above the forest
Walking up from Dharamsala, the forest changes with height. Deodar dominates the lower reserved forests; higher up, oak and rhododendron woods alternate with grassy slopes and meadows; and above the tree line come alpine meadows and bare rock that stays under snow for much of the year.
These meadows are working pastures. The Gaddis, the indigenous shepherd community of the Kangra and Chamba hills, bring their sheep and goats up to summer grazing in the Dhauladhar and take them down to the lower districts of Una, Bilaspur, Kangra, Hamirpur and Sirmaur in winter. The high ground is hard on them too: every July and August they lose hundreds of animals to heavy snow and rain on the Dhauladhar. Triund has long served Gaddi herders as a halting place on the way to the Indrahar Pass, and Ilaqa, higher up, is a grazing ground with herders’ camps near the tree line.
From Triund to Indrahar Pass
The classic route over the range starts at Galu temple above Dharamkot. It climbs through oak and rhododendron forest to Triund, a meadow on a spur at about 2,850 m, which the British used as a base for climbs on Indrahar, Mon Peak and Slab Peak. From Triund the trail continues to Ilaqa, where the snow line begins at about 3,350 m, and on to Lahesh Cave, a rock shelter at about 3,300 m some two to three hours further. The last climb, from the cave to the pass, is steep and takes between two and six hours.
Indrahar Pass is at 4,342 m and marks the border between Kangra and Chamba districts. From the top the view reaches the Pir Panjal range to the north. On the far side the trail drops past Chhata caves to the village of Kuarsi, and from Choli a road leads on to Chamba town. The trekking season is usually given as April or May to October.
Snow, rain and the season
Triund is often described as the nearest snow line in the Indian Himalaya that can be reached on foot, and even in June the peaks behind a meadow like this one carry plenty of snow. June is also when the monsoon reaches Dharamsala. The rains last until mid-September and bring up to 3,000 mm a year to the town. In winter the upper villages around McLeod Ganj see snow, while in recent dry spells the Dhauladhar peaks have been losing their snow cover.
Weather on the crest turns quickly. The Gaddis’ losses each summer come from storms and heavy snowfall, and a single lightning strike at one of their upper camps once killed hundreds of sheep. This is why permission for the main routes now lapses as soon as a weather warning is issued.
Trekking rules in 2026
Since January 2026 all trekking above 3,000 m in Kangra district has been banned, which takes in Ilaqa, Lahesh Cave and the Indrahar Pass. The Triund, Kareri and Adi Himani Chamunda routes need prior permission from the Superintendent of Police, Kangra, and that permission is cancelled whenever the Meteorological Centre in Shimla issues a warning. The Regional Mountaineering Centre in McLeod Ganj gives route advice and rents out equipment. For the lower ridges and what they look like with a school group on them, see Young Trekkers in the Himalayas.
Questions
How high is the Dhauladhar range?
The Dhauladhar rises from about 3,500 m to nearly 6,000 m, with several peaks close to 5,500 m. It is a lesser Himalayan range in Himachal Pradesh, and its name means 'the White Range'. Indrahar Pass, the best-known crossing above Dharamsala, is at 4,342 m.
Is there snow above Dharamsala in June?
The crest of the Dhauladhar is covered in thick snow for much of the year, and in this June panorama the peaks behind the meadow are still white. On the trail from McLeod Ganj, the Kangra district puts the start of the snow line at Ilaqa, about 3,350 m. Triund is often called the nearest snow line that can be reached on foot in the Indian Himalaya.
How do you get from Triund to Indrahar Pass?
The trail runs from Galu temple above Dharamkot to Triund, then to the grazing ground of Ilaqa, Lahesh Cave at about 3,300 m and up to the pass. The climb from Lahesh Cave is steep and takes two to six hours. On the far side the path descends into Chamba district towards Kuarsi village.
Can you trek to Indrahar Pass now?
In January 2026 the Kangra district administration banned all trekking above 3,000 m, which covers Indrahar Pass. Lower routes such as Triund need prior permission from the Superintendent of Police, Kangra, and registration at a check post. Ask in Dharamsala for the current orders before planning a crossing.
